Car and bike maintenance mean two completely different things. Skipping a service interval on cars only becomes an issue when the next check engine light pops up in the dash. Do the same on a bike, and you’re risking your life. With that said, bikes are understandably high-maintenance, partly due to the high
There’s also a stark difference between different bikes. Dirt machines and two-strokes will have your two-wheeler in the garage after a few hours of heavy riding. Bigger tourers and cruisers, on the other hand, like Harleys and Indians have lower redlines, are built on sturdier frames, and don’t see as much stress, regardless of how or where you ride. But they too will need some care with the basics. For a carefree ride, here’s a shortlist for every bike owner when scheduling the next service interval:
Service Kits
To keep your bike happy, healthy, and firing on all cylinders, cut out multiple orders or visits to your bike shop with fully-packaged motorcycle service kits. The contents of each will differ from bike to bike, but all kits include engine oil and oil filters. Some throw in transmission and crankcase oil and the required number of spark plugs for the cylinder count.
Older bikes predating fuel injection usually require mineral-based oil. This is derived from crude petroleum, with unwanted contaminants burned off during refining. The low price is a major benefit, but mineral oils do show their limitations with slower flow impacting overall engine performance. And they need to be changed much earlier. As an illustration, mid-80s Harleys need new mineral oil every 2000 to 3000 miles. Depending on riding and weather conditions.
Synthetic oil is mandatory in newer and high-displacement engines. It offers better lubrication, improved cooling and increased protection in engines with higher redlines and those putting out more torque. Specific reasons to choose synthetic oils are the improved corrosion resistance, reduced friction of metal components, lower emissions and fuel use, and substantially longer service intervals. The latter averages around 5000 to 7000 miles, depending on the bike. Synthetic oil can also be used in bike rebuilds and older models, due to favourable properties and improved efficiency., while also offering a performance boost.
Filters in motorcycle service kits need to match the oil. OE filters often contain subpar cellulose filtering media that gets rid of most contaminants, before the oil reaches the engine. Where they struggle is microscopic particulates, which in large amounts can ruin even the best engine. Look for filters with glass fibre or synthetic filtering media, and with high dirt retention, measured in microns. The parts are changed with every oil change, and there’s a choice of spin-on or cartridge filters, again depending on the bike.
Brake Pad Sets
Pads are regular replacement parts for bikes with disc brakes. The front pads do most of the braking, so need more frequent changes than those in the rear. This generally runs between 7500 and 10000 miles for front pads and 10 to 12 thousand miles at the back. Different factors, like bike power, weight, top speeds, pad composition, and where and how you ride all play a part.
Big tourers and cruisers are fitted with organic pads straight out of the factory. They provide a decent brake feel and get the bike, rider and 500 pounds+ of weight to a stop in relatively short distances. The mix of organic materials (glass, fibres, ceramics, rubber and synthetics like Kevlar) bodes well in leisurely rides at the speed limit without too much hassle. The downsides are they wear out sooner than other options, can throw up considerable amounts of corrosive pad dust and aren’t suited to higher top speeds.
Swap stock organic for semi-metallic pads if you’re after a better feel when pulling the brake lever or pressing the rear pedal. The mix of organic materials and metals performs better in wet and muddy settings (necessary for dirt bikes and ADVs), lasts longer, has lower instances of brake fade, and brings more stopping power with shorter stopping distances. They’re suited to heavier and high-output cruisers and tourers that can hold their own against 600cc sports bikes.
For track use, bikes with truckloads of torque and big-displacement engines, choose sintered brake pads. These get their high stopping power from a pressed mix of various metallic fibres, meaning stopping power when you need it. Besides being more durable, the pads can sustain longer bouts of hard braking (and the accompanying temperatures from the friction of pads and discs) with better modulation and good initial bite. The only downside is that they’re somewhat unforgiving on the discs and come at a slightly higher cost.
When changing the pads, ensure to bleed the system, and top up or replace the brake fluid if necessary.
Battery Chargers
Chargers are a necessity in garaged and bikes that see infrequent use. Batteries top up with the bike running and the current supplied from the alternator. All new chargers can handle lead-acid, AGM and lithium batteries in 6 or 12V output, are lightweight (most are under 2 kilos), portable and compact, and can be used from a mains charger or are compatible with solar panels. To ensure no more dying or depleted batteries, look for smart chargers with included circuit protection (to avoid overcharging or overheating) and that the battery tops up as needed.
Air Filters
Air filters ensure clean intake of air, free of contaminants such as dust, pollen and road debris. They’re often considered the first line of defence for your engine from harmful particles that can negatively impact performance or cause major damage. There are several types to choose from, each with varying rates of efficiency.
Paper filters use non-tear pleated paper in multiple layers. They’re the most common type of stock filter, simple to manufacture and cheap to buy. However, paper air filters are not reusable, can’t be cleaned and need more frequent changes. And they have subpar filtering in dusty conditions, so not the best option for dirt and adventure bikes.
Cotton gauze filters are a more expensive, but more efficient choice. They’re durable, offer better filtering and can help with improved air intake for better engine performance. The lightweight and rigid cotton filtering media also provides good filtration, capturing smaller particles. Go with oil-coated types for easier cleaning and less frequent changes.
Foam filters fall between paper and cotton gauze in terms of price and overall performance. They too are reusable and can be cleaned, but restrict intake airflow, often leading to clogs and reduced engine performance in types with denser foam. While largely replaced by cotton filters in newer bikes, they’re standard equipment in rebuilds and older motorcycles.
Recommended intervals for new air filters range between 10 and 15 thousand miles, or once yearly. All maintenance items listed here are cheap (under £50), widely available, and offered as original equipment or from established aftermarket brands.
